Monday, November 3, 2008

The Dead Come Alive at Forest Hills Cemetery

Except for colored lanterns, Forest Park Cemetery is pitch black, figures in mass walking down the road, their shadows complementing the surrounding tombstones like living-dead ghosts. Ahead of us is a giant bonfire and the wafting of incense. Around us, the church bell tomes in the dark.

November 2ed is the Annual Day of the Dead Ritual at Forest Park Cemetery. For 19 years, surrounding families have come to replicate the Mexican and South American ceremony and the numbers of participants has grown.

“It used to be five families and now it is fifty. Some come from curiosity, some to honor the dead. They come through word of mouth.” says one participant Frezza Herrera. She is handing out cups of hot chocolate and popcorn as offering for the dead and living alike.

“My grandmother loved chocolate and corn. I bring it for the memory of her.” Says Herrera

The Day of the Dead Ritual in its basic form has been celebrated in Mexico for perhaps 2,500-3,000 years, although in its modern incantations was created with the Aztec calendar. Typically the festival lasts for two days, November 1st for deceased children and November 2ed as the Day of the Dead. During this time, people bring pictures, food and flowers for the dead to enjoy.

“We are inviting our dead relatives to come.” Says Juan Gonzdez, head of the fire ceremony.

Great wafting incense emits from pots and surrounds us with its sweet smell. Apples, candles, popcorn, dried and fresh flowers decorate each of the four corner tables.

Every detail of the Day of the Dead is enriched in symbolism. From the incense that represents the transformation from physical to spiritual to the bouquets of flowers that represent the short lifespan of mankind.

We have been working since 8:30 this morning-just to have this moment,” says the organizer Rosaba Soies. “It all has to do with math, everything here has a reason.”

At the Alter, atop of which is a glowing blue skull, Pan de muertos, bread of the dead, has been left for the departed, the thought being that the soul of the bread is eaten by the deceased that visit. People come to stand in front of the alter in awe, others to pray.

Most crowd around the bonfire, the mood solemn. One man closes his eyes in prayer while Juan Gonzdez begins to burn photographs of the dead.

“Listen to the fire and you may have some communication with the dead” He says.

Juan Gonzdez has been doing these fire ceremonies for twenty plus years, but he has been learning these ceremonies since he was a boy.

“It is our way of life, this is how we relate to creation.” Says Gonzdez.

Frezza Herrera comes to the fire and bows down before it. Taking incense sticks she makes the sign of the cross and meditates in front of the fire. Everyone breathes in deep as Gonzdez burns sage and other herbs into the fire, surrounding us in a giant cloud of humid smoke that chokes out the frigid air.

“We are creating an experience. An experience different than your everyday life." Says Gonzdez.

The fire dies slowly as the bell tomes again, the embers spilling out thick gray clouds of smoke into the dark. The sweet smell of incense and hot chocolate follow me back on the train home.

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